Problem

Buzz from under the hood when changing engine RPM.

Possible Cause

The AIR pipe contacts the fuel line attachment stud on the dash panel.

Correction

1. Open the hood and visually inspect the pipe for contact with the stud.
2. Loosen the hose clamp on the AIR pipe at the check valve.
3. Rotate the hose on the valve to reposition the pipe to gain clearance to the stud.
4. Make sure clearance is maintained to the exhaust manifold.

Problem

Buzz from under the hood when the engine is under a load.

Possible Cause

Brake line is contacting the AIR pipe.

Correction

1. Road test. Check the brake line for contact with the AIR pipe.
2. Properly retain the brake line in the isolated support.
3. Bend the brake line slightly to gain clearance to the AIR pipe.

Problem

Rattle from under the hood.

Possible Cause

The hood striker is bouncing in the hood latch.

Correction

1. Gently apply up and down pressure to the rear edge of the hood checking to see if the hood is snug to the anti rattle bumpers.
2. Adjust the anti rattle bumpers up to be snug to the hood .
3. Lubricate the bumpers and strikers with white lithium grease.
4. Lower the hood latch if necessary to maintain hood to fender flushness.

•	The hood should be 1 mm (0.004 in) low with no bumper contact.

•	Level the hood by raising the bumpers.

•	The hood latches should lock when the hood is lowered with a minimal amount of additional downward force.

Problem

Rustle sound, or sound of rushing water, from under the hood.

Possible Cause

The fuel lines are contacting the bottom of the plenum panel.

Correction

1. Open the hood.
2. With the engine running apply pressure to the fuel lines at the plenum panel and listen for noise.
3. Insulate the fuel lines from the plenum with closed cell tape.

Problem

Twang or rattle from the front of the vehicle when closing the hood or a door.

Possible Cause

The tension springs on the rear of the air deflector are contacting the deflector.

Correction

1. Raise vehicle and check the rear of the air deflector for spring contact.
2. Install a spacer (self sticking rubber pad, or equivalent) between each spring and the rear of the deflector.

Problem

Clicking noise from the steering wheel during turns. Noise is worse after ten miles of driving.

Possible Cause

The intermediate shaft U-joint face seals are noisy.

Correction

1. Road test the vehicle making numerous turns for at least ten miles and listen for the noise.
2. Replace the intermediate shaft.