Caution: The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.

To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in "Weight of the Trailer" that appears later in this section.

If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it's ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.

That's the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

If you do, here are some important points:

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

How heavy can a trailer safely be?

It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. The weight of the trailer tongue also affects the maximum trailer weight. See "Weight of the Trailer Tongue" later in this section.

Your vehicle is a two-wheel drive vehicle. The axle ratio is 3.73, the maximum trailer weight is 2,500 lbs (1 134 kg) and the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg).

The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

You can ask your dealer for trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue

The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle for more information about your vehicle's maximum load capacity.

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 250 lbs (113 kg) with the equipped hitch.

Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Only use the equipped crossmember/receiver that is included with your vehicle.

After you've loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately to see if the weights are proper. If they aren't, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Be sure your vehicle's tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You'll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver's door. See Loading the Vehicle . Then be sure you don't go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

Your vehicle is compatible only with the following optional trailering hitch. To order this hitch, see your dealer.

1. Centering Device

2. Handwheel

3. Lock

4. Ball Rod

5. Ball (purchased separately)

6. Chain Loop

Installing the Ball Rod

To install the ball rod do the following:

1. Remove the cover of the housing located behind the license plate area by pushing in the tabs and pulling downward.



2. Be sure the unit is unlocked before pretensioning. Unlock using the key.

Then pretension the ball rod by pulling out the handwheel and turning it counterclockwise. When the ball is pretensioned, it means:

•	The red area of the handwheel should be opposite the white marking on the ball rod.

•	The key cannot be withdrawn.

•	The ball rod can only be installed in this position. If the key is inserted and the lock is open, tighten the handwheel slightly and turn clockwise as far as the stop. Insert the ball rod as far into the housing as it will go. When this happens, you will hear the lock engage.




3. Check that the ball rod is tight by doing the following:

•	Close the lock, withdraw the key, and install the lock cover securely.

•	The green area on the handwheel should be opposite the white dot on the ball rod.

•	Move the hitch back and forth to ensure it is properly secured.

If you cannot complete all of the above checks, repeat the assembly procedure.

Removing the Ball Rod

To remove the ball rod do the following:

1. Open the lock cover on the handwheel and unlock with the key.



2. Hold the ball rod tight with one hand, tighten the handwheel slightly and turn it clockwise as far as it will go.
3. Pull the ball rod down and off . Store the ball rod for future use.



4. Reinstall the housing cover.

You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Your trailer's brake system can tap into the vehicle's hydraulic brake system only if:

If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

Before you start, check all trailer hitch, parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.

During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

You'll need more passing distance up ahead when you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package).

The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.

When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It's important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads or hilly conditions. If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it is better not to use SIXTH (6) gear. Just drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. For manual transmissions, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied, for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating .

Caution: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's how to do it:

1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission. Turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Release the regular brakes.

1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

•	Start your engine.

•	Shift into a gear.

•	Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Your vehicle will need service more often when you're pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual. If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip.

Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

The trailer wiring is a four-wire harness assembly. The wires are blunted and taped to the wiring harness. The harness and wiring are stored under the vehicle on the driver's side. The harness has no connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.

Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.