Road Noise
Some road surfaces cause noise that may be mistaken for tire or axle
noise. Road noise is usually the same while driving or coasting. Driving on
a smooth surface helps determine the cause of the noise.
Perform the following maintenance/diagnostic checks:
• | Check the tires for irregular wear. |
• | Check the tire pressure. |
• | Check the front axle lubricant level. |
• | Drive the vehicle to warm up the front axle. |
• | Drive the vehicle at various speeds in drive, float, coast, and
while cornering. |
Tire Noise
Tire noise continues with lower tone as the vehicle slows down. Tire
noise may easily be mistaken for axle noise. Tire noise changes with varying
road surfaces. Axle noise does not change, although, it usually stops when
coasting at speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph). Temporarily inflating
all the tires to 345 kPa (50 psi) pressure for test purposes
only will materially alter noise caused by tires, but will not affect noise
caused by the axle.
Perform the following maintenance/diagnostic checks:
• | Change the tire pressure to minimize noises. |
• | Drive over different road surfaces. |
• | Drive on smooth blacktop to minimize tire noise. |
• | Cross switch the tires, if necessary. |
• | Remember that snow tire treads and tire studs cause added noise. |
Engine and Transmission Noises
In order to determine which unit is at fault, take note of approximate
vehicle speeds and conditions under which the noise is most pronounced. Stop
the vehicle in a quiet place to stop interfering noises. With the transmission
in neutral, run the engine slowly throughout the range corresponding to the
vehicle speed at which the noise was most pronounced. If a similar noise is
produced, the noise is caused by the engine or transmission and not the axle.
Perform the following diagnostic checks:
- Drive slightly above the speed where the noise occurs. Place the
transmission in neutral.
- Let the engine speed drop to idle.
- Stop the vehicle.
- Run the engine at various speeds.
Wheel Bearing Noise
Raise the vehicle on a twin post hoist. Spin the wheels by hand. Listen
for a knock or a click about every two revolutions of the wheel. The bearing
rollers do not travel at the same speed as the axle and the wheel.
Perform the following diagnostic checks:
- Drive the vehicle at low speed on a smooth road.
- Turn to the left and turn to the right. The noise should change
with the cornering loads.
- Jack up the wheels in order to verify roughness at the wheels.
Gear Noise
There are two basic types of gear noise. The first type is produced
by broken, bent, or forcibly damaged gear teeth which is usually quite audible
over the entire speed range, and presents no difficulty in diagnosis. Hypoid
gear tooth scoring is one example that generally results from the following
conditions:
• | Insufficient gear backlash |
• | Improper ring and pinion alignment |
• | Loss of drive pinion nut torque |
This scoring will progressively lead to complete erosion of the gear
teeth or gear teeth pitting and then eventual fracture if the initial scoring
is not corrected. Another cause of hypoid gear fracture is extended overloading
of the gear set. This will produce fatigue fracture, or shock loading, which
will result in sudden failure.
The second type of gear noise pertains to the mesh pattern of the gear
teeth. This form of abnormal gear noise can be recognized because it produces
a cycling pitch (whine) and will be very pronounced. It tends to peak in a
narrow speed range, appearing under drive, float, or coast conditions and
will remain constant in pitch. Bearing noise will vary in pitch with vehicle
speeds.
• | Rough running or a whine noise should increase with speed. |
• | Noise pitch should be higher than differential noise. |
• | Front pinion bearing noise may be louder on deceleration. |
• | Rear pinion bearing noise may be louder on acceleration. |
Perform the following diagnostic check:
• | Road test the vehicle on a smooth road in order to minimize tire
noise. |
• | Road test the vehicle at various speeds in drive, float, and coast. |