Caution: The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.

To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in "Weight of the Trailer" that appears later in this section.

If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it's ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.

That's the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

If you do, here are some important points:

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

Tow/haul is designed to assist while your vehicle is pulling a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is most useful while pulling such a load in rolling terrain, in stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to:

Press the button on the end of the shift lever to turn tow/haul mode on and off. While activated, the indicator light on the instrument panel will be on. Tow/haul mode will turn off automatically when the ignition is turned off. See Tow/Haul Mode Light .

Tow/haul is most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle's Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See "Weight of the Trailer" later in this section.

Driving with tow/haul activated without a heavy load will cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics, but will not cause damage.

How heavy can a trailer safely be?

It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

The following chart shows how much your trailer can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

The Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo equipment and conversion. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue

The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle for more information about your vehicle's maximum load capacity.

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 200 lbs (92 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 750 lbs (341 kg) with a weight distributing hitch.

After you've loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren't, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Be sure your vehicle's tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You'll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label at the rear edge of the driver's door or see Loading the Vehicle . Then be sure you don't go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don't go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars.

It's important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch.

Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches

When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.

If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

If you'll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg.), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you're driving. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?

If you're using the wiring provided with the factory-installed trailering package, you should not need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle. However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed, you may need to make holes in the body.

If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle as well as dirt and water. See "Carbon Monoxide" under Engine Exhaust .

You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle's hydraulic brake system, except:

Caution: When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.

During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

You'll need more passing distance up ahead when you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in the optional trailering package).

The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.

When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It's important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating .

Caution: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's how to do it:

1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.

1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

•	start your engine,

•	shift into a gear, and

•	release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Your vehicle will need service more often when you're pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip.

Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

If you have the optional trailering package, your vehicle will have an eight-wire harness, including the center high-mounted stoplamp battery feed wire. The harness is stored on the passenger's side of the vehicle near the rear wheel well. This harness has a 30 amp battery feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. After choosing an aftermarket trailer mating connector pair, have the technician attach one connector to the eight-wire trailer harness and the other connector to the wiring harness on the trailer. Be sure the wiring harness on the trailer is taped or strapped to the trailer's frame rail and leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. The eight-wire harness must be routed out of your vehicle between the rear door and the floor, with enough of the harness left on both sides so that the trailer or the body won't pull it. If you do not have the optional trailering package, your vehicle will still have a trailering harness. The harness is located near the passenger's side rear wheel well. It consists of six wires that may be used by after-market trailer hitch installers.

The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.