It is necessary to replace any wheels which are bent, dented, or which have excessive lateral or radial runout. Also, wheels with runout greater than specified may cause objectionable vibrations.

1. Use a straight edge 203-229 mm (8-9 in) long. Place the straight edge on the wheel inboard mounting surface. Try to rock the straight edge up and down within the mounting surface.



2. Repeat this procedure on at least 3 or 4 different positions on the inboard mounting surface.

•	The outer ring of the mounting surface normally is raised above everything inside the mounting surface.

•	The mounting surface will be raised above the outer ring if the wheel mounting surface has been bent on a tire changer.




3. Inspect the mounting wheel/nut holes for damage caused from over-torquing the wheel nuts. Inspect for collapsed wheel/nut bosses. Inspect for cracked wheel bosses.




Notice: The use of non-GM original equipment wheels may cause:

•	Damage to the wheel bearing, the wheel fasteners and the wheel

•	Tire damage caused by the modified clearance to the adjacent vehicle components

•	Adverse vehicle steering stability caused by the modified scrub radius

•	Damage to the vehicle caused by the modified ground clearance

•	Speedometer and odometer inaccuracy

Important: 

•	Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original equipment wheels in the following ways:

-	Load capacity

-	Wheel diameter

-

Rim width

-	Wheel offset

-	Mounting configuration

•	A wheel of incorrect size or type may effect the following conditions:

-	Wheel and hub-bearing life

-	Brake cooling

-	Speedometer/odometer calibration

-	Vehicle ground clearance

-	Tire clearance to the body and the chassis

4. Replace the wheel if the wheel is bent. Replace the wheel if the wheel/nut boss area is cracked.

Identify steel wheels with a 2 or 3 letter code stamped into the rim near the valve stem. Aluminum wheels have the code, the part number, and the manufacturer identification cast into the back side of the wheel.