Removal Procedure
Tools Required
• | J 24402-A Glass
Sealant Remover (Cold Knife) |
• | The J 39032
Stationary Window Removal Tool |
• | Isopropyl alcohol or equivalent |
• | Cartridge-type caulking gun |
• | Commercial-type utility knife |
- Unclip the defogger connector at the left and right side of the
window from the inside of the cab, if equipped.
- Remove all trim panels necessary in order to gain access for rear
window removal.
- Disconnect the washer hose from the rear.
- Apply masking tape to the area around the window in order to protect
the painted surfaces from damage and to protect the headliner.
- Open rear window.
- Remove the rear window garnish molding. Refer to
Window Garnish Molding Replacement
in Body Rear End.
- Disconnect the electrical
connector from the rear window defogger on the rear window.
Caution: When working with any type of glass or sheet metal with exposed or rough
edges, wear approved safety glasses and gloves in order to reduce
the chance of personal injury.
- Using a sharp utility knife, make a preliminary cut around the perimeter
of the rear window. Cut as close to edge of the rear window as possible.
Important: Keep the cutting edge of the tool against the stationary window when
removing the stationary window. This will allow the urethane adhesive to
be separated from the stationary window. Leave a base of urethane
on the pinchweld flange. The only suitable lubrication is
clear water.
- Use J 24402-A
or J 39032
in order to cut the window
from the pinchweld flange. Do this from inside the vehicle in order to protect
the outer paint surface.
- With the aid of an assistant,
use suction cups in order to lift the rear window from the opening.
- Remove the rear reveal molding from the edge of the window.
- Inspect the following components for the causes of a broken rear
window:
• | The flange of the rear window opening |
• | The rear window reveal molding |
- Inspect for any of the following problems in order to help prevent
future breakage of the rear window:
• | Hardened spot weld sealer |
• | Any other obstruction or irregularity in the pinchweld flange |
Important: If corrosion of the pinchweld flange is present, or if sheet metal repairs
or replacements are necessary, refinish the pinchweld flange in order to present
a clean, primer-only surface. If paint repairs are
required, mask the flange bonding area prior to the
application of the color coat in order to
provide a clean primer only surface. Materials such as
BASF DE17®, DuPont 2610®, Sherwin-Williams PSE 4600®
and NP 70® or Martin-Semour 5120® and 5130® products
are approved for this application.
- After repairing the opening as indicated, perform the following steps:
- Inspect the condition of the rear window opening and the urethane
adhesive bead in order to determine which installation method
you will use. Refer to
Short Method Description
or
Extended Method Description
for the guidelines.
15.1. | Remove all traces of broken glass from the vehicle. |
15.2. | Clean around the edge of the inside surface of the rear window
with a 50/50 mixture (by volume) of isopropyl alcohol and water on a dampened,
lint-free cloth. |
Installation Procedure
Caution: When replacing stationary windows, use Urethane Adhesive Kit GM P/N 12346392
(Canadian P/N 10952983), or a urethane adhesive system meeting GM Specification
GM3651G, to maintain original installation integrity. Failure to use the urethane
adhesive kit will result in poor retention of the window which may allow unrestrained
occupants to be ejected from the vehicle resulting in personal injury.
After repairing the opening as indicated, perform the
following:
- Shake the pinchweld primer (black #3) for at least one
minute.
Caution: Failure to prep the area prior to the application of primer
may cause insufficient bonding of urethane adhesive. Insufficient bonding
of urethane adhesive may allow unrestrained occupants to be ejected from
the vehicle resulting in personal injury.
- Use a new dauber to apply the pinchweld primed (black #3) to
the surface of the bonding area.
- Allow the primer to dry for approximately 10 minutes. Ensure that
all nicks and scratches are covered.
- If the rear window reveal molding is damaged by cutting it too
close to the window surface, replace the rear window reveal molding.
Install the rear window reveal molding to the edge of the window.
- With the aid of an assistant, dry fit the rear window into the
opening in order to determine the correct way to position the rear window
in the opening.
- Use masking tape in order
to mark the location of the rear window in the opening.
- Slit the masking tape at the top edge of the rear window.
- With the aid of assistant and using suction cups, remove the rear
window from the opening.
- Place the rear window inside up on a clean, protected surface.
- If the original rear window is being reused, remove all but approximately
2 mm (3/64 in) of the existing urethane
adhesive from the rear window surface, using a utility knife
or razor blade scraper.
- Clean around the edge of the inside surface of the rear window
with a 50/50 mixture (by volume) of isopropyl alcohol and water on a dampened,
lint-free cloth.
Important: Do not remove all traces of the adhesive. Remove all mounds or loose
pieces of urethane adhesive .
- If the extended method is being used remove all but approximately
2 mm (3/64 in) of the existing bead of adhesive from
the pinchweld flange.
- Shake the pinchweld primer (black #3) for at least one
minute.
- Use a new dauber to apply the primer to the surface of the pinchweld
flange.
- Allow the pinchweld primer to dry for approximately 10
minutes.
Important: Use care when applying the prep (clear #1) to the window. This
primer dries almost instantly and may stain the viewing area
of the window if not applied evenly.
- Use a new dauber in order to apply glass prep (clear #3) to the
area approximately 10 mm to 6 mm (3/8 in to 5/8 in)
around the entire perimeter of the window inner surface.
- Apply a second coat of the glass prep (clear #1) to the
same area of the glass.
- Wipe the glass primed area immediately with a clean, lint-free
cloth.
- Shake the glass primer (black #2) for at least one minute.
- Use a new dauber in order
to apply the glass primer (black #2) to the same areas that glass prep
(clear #1) was applied.
The glass primer (black #2) is good up to 8 hours after applying
it to the glass. The primed surface of the glass must be kept clean.
- Allow the glass primer to dry for approximately 10 minutes.
- If using the short method,
of cut the tip of the nozzle to provide an adhesive bead of 6.0 mm
(1/4 in ).
- If using the extended method, cut the tip to provide an adhesive
bead of approximately 10.5 mm (0.14 in ) wide
and 10.5 mm (0.14 in) high.
- Use a cartridge type caulking
gun in order to apply a smooth, continuous bead of urethane adhesive.
- If reusing the original glass, apply the new urethane adhesive
on the top of the fresh-trimmed urethane adhesive.
- When using the extended
method, use the edge of the liftgate window or the inside edge of the reveal
molding as a guide for the nozzle in order to apply the urethane
adhesive (1) to the inner surface of the lift gate window
(3).
- With the aid of an assistant, use the suction cups in order to
install the liftgate window into the opening.
- Align the tape on the rear window and the body.
- Press the rear window firmly into place.
- Tape the rear window to the body in order to minimize movement
until the urethane adhesive cures.
- Clean any excess urethane adhesive from the body.
Important: Do not direct a hard stream of high pressure water to the freshly urethane
adhesive.
- Use a soft spray of water in order to watertest the rear window immediately.
- Warm or hot water is preferred in order to accelerate the curing
of adhesive.
- Inspect the window for leaks. If any leaks are found, use a plastic
paddle in order to apply extra urethane adhesive at the leak point.
- Retest the window for leaks.
- The following conditions must be maintained to properly cure the
urethane:
36.1. | Allow the vehicle to remain at room temperature (21°C or 70°F)
at 30 percent relative humidity. |
| Caution: At least 24 hours are required for complete curing of repair
material. The repair area should not be physically distrubed until after that
time. Insufficient curing of urethane adhesive may allow unrestrained occupants
to be ejected from the vehicle resulting in personal injury.
|
36.2. | Allow a minimum of 6 hours for the moisture-curing urethane
adhesive. |
36.3. | Allow a minimum of 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours for the chemical-curing
urethane adhesive. |
36.4. | Partially lower a door window in order to prevent pressure buildups
when closing doors before the urethane adhesive cures. |
36.5. | Do not drive the vehicle until the urethane adhesive is fully
cured. Refer to the above curing times. |
36.6. | Do not use compressed air in order to dry the urethane adhesive. |
- Connect the electrical
connector from the rear window defogger on the rear window.
- Install the rear window garnish molding. Refer to
Window Garnish Molding Replacement
in Body Rear
End.
- Close rear window.
- Remove the protective coverings and tape from the vehicle rear
window and headliner.