Replace any wheels that are bent or dented, or have excessive
lateral or radial runout. Wheels with runout greater than specified may cause
objectionable vibrations.
- Use a straight edge 203-229 mm
(8-9 in) long. Place the straight edge on the wheel inboard mounting
surface. Try to rock the straightedge up and down within the mounting
surface.
- Repeat this procedure
on at least 3-4 different positions on the inboard mounting surface.
• | The outer ring of the mounting surface normally is raised above
everything inside the mounting surface. |
• | The mounting surface will be raised above the outer ring if the
wheel mounting surface has been bent on a tire changer. |
• | If you can rock the straight edge, the mounting surface is bent
and you must replace the wheel. |
- Inspect the mounting wheel/nut
holes for damage caused from over-torquing the wheel/nuts. Inspect for collapsed
wheel/nut bosses. Inspect for cracked wheel bosses.
Notice: The use of non-GM original equipment wheels may cause:
• | Damage to the wheel bearing, the wheel fasteners and the wheel |
• | Tire damage caused by the modified clearance to the adjacent vehicle
components |
• | Adverse vehicle steering stability caused by the modified
scrub radius |
• | Damage to the vehicle caused by the modified ground clearance |
• | Speedometer and odometer inaccuracy |
Important:
• | Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original equipment
wheels in the following ways: |
- | The mounting configuration |
• | A wheel of the incorrect size or type may affect the following
conditions: |
- | Wheel and hub-bearing life |
- | Speedometer/odometer calibration |
- | Vehicle ground clearance |
- | Tire clearance to the body and the chassis |
- Replace the wheel if the wheel is bent.
- Replace the wheel if the wheel/nut boss area is cracked.
Identify steel wheels with a 2 or 3-letter code stamped into the
rim near the valve stem. Aluminum wheels have the code, the part number, and
the manufacturer identification cast into the back side of the wheel.