Most fluid leaks can be located and repaired by visually finding the leak and replacing or repairing the necessary parts. The following procedures may aid in finding leaks.

1. Identify the fluid, determine whether it is engine oil, automatic transaxle fluid, power steering fluid, etc.
2. At what point is the fluid leaking from? After running the vehicle a minimum of 15 miles to reach operating temperature, park the vehicle over a large sheet of paper. The drippings on the paper should indicate the approximate location of the leak.
3. Visually check around the suspected component. Check around all gasket mating surfaces for leaks. A mirror may be helpful inspecting components that are hard to see.
4. If the leak still cannot be found, it may be necessary to clean the suspected area with a degreaser, steam or spray solvent. Clean the area well and dry the area. Operate the vehicle at normal operating temperature and varying speeds for several miles. After operating the vehicle inspect the suspected component. If the leak cannot be found try the powder or black light and dye method.

1. Clean the suspected area.
2. Apply an aerosol-type powder, such as foot powder, to the suspected area.
3. Operate the vehicle under normal operating conditions.
4. Visually inspect the suspected component. You should be able to trace the leak path over the powder to the leak.

A SA9175NE dye and black light kit is available for finding leaks. Refer to the manufacturer's directions when using the kit.

1. Pour the specified amount of dye into the leaking component.
2. Operate the vehicle under normal operating conditions.
3. Direct the light towards the suspected component. The dyed fluid will appear as a brightly colored path leading back to the leak.

Once the leak has been pinpointed, the cause of the leak must be determined in order to repair the leak. Before attempting to repair a leak, check to be sure none of the following conditions are present.

1. Fluid level/pressure is too high.
2. Plugged vent or drain-back holes.
3. Improperly torqued fasteners or dirty/damaged threads.
4. Warped flanges or sealing surfaces.
5. Scratches, burrs or other damage to the sealing surface.
6. Damaged or worn gasket.
7. Cracking or porosity of the component.

1. Fluid level/pressure too high.
2. Plugged vent or drain-back holes.
3. Damaged seal bore (scratched, burred, nicked).
4. Damaged or worn seal.
5. Improper installation.
6. Shaft seal surface scratched nicked or damaged.
7. Cracks in component.
8. Loose or worn bearing causing excess seal wear.

1. Transaxle valvebody cover:

•	Attaching bolts not correctly torqued

•	Improperly installed or damaged gasket

•	Valvebody cover or mounting face not flat

•	Solenoid connector seal missing

2. Case leak:

•	Filler tube O-ring damaged or missing

•	Manual shaft seal damaged

•	Oil cooler fittings loose or damaged

•	Axle seals worn or damaged

•	Case-to-converter housing gasket damaged

•	Porous casting

•	Rear cover to case gasket damaged

•	Input shaft hub retaining bolts leaking

•	Pressure filter seal damaged

•	Sensor loose or damaged O-ring

3. Leak at converter end:

•	Converter seal damaged

•	Seal the lip cut. Check the converter hub for damage

•	Converter leak in weld area

•	Replace the converter.

•	Porous converter housing casting

4. Fluid comes out of fill tube:

•	Over-filled

•	Water or coolant in fluid -- Fluid will appear milky

•	Case porous

•	Plugged vent